How Each Floor Is Built

Solid wood flooring is milled from a single piece of timber. One species, all the way through, typically 8mm to 22mm thick. Nothing else involved.

Engineered wood flooring is different. A real hardwood veneer, usually 2mm to 6mm thick, sits bonded to a plywood core underneath. The surface is genuine hardwood either way. The construction underneath is what changes how the floor moves.

Moisture, Temperature, and Cheadle's Housing Stock

Wood is hygroscopic. It absorbs and releases moisture depending on the air around it. In winter, central heating dries the air and solid wood can shrink, leaving small gaps between boards. In summer, humidity rises and boards can swell.

This matters more in some Cheadle properties than others. Victorian-era buildings near the High Street and Market Cross often have original timber subfloors, which handle solid wood reasonably well once properly prepared. Homes with concrete subfloors, more common in newer developments around Mobberley and Woodhead, are usually better suited to engineered wood, since solid wood isn't generally recommended over concrete.

Underfloor Heating Compatibility

If your home has underfloor heating, or you're planning to install it, this decision becomes more straightforward. Engineered wood is the safer choice. Its layered construction handles gradual heat changes without the same risk of movement that solid wood carries. Most flooring professionals won't recommend solid wood over underfloor heating at all.

Oak, Ash, and Walnut Compared

Oak remains the most requested species for UK flooring, and for good reason. It sits in the hard end of the Janka hardness scale, giving it strong resistance to dents and everyday wear. Ash sits close behind, with a lighter tone and bolder grain, working well in open-plan rooms. Walnut is softer and scratches more easily, but its rich, dark tone makes it a popular choice anyway, particularly where visual character matters more than maximum hardness.

Grades Explained

Grade describes appearance, not quality or durability. Select grade has minimal knots and a consistent, even colour, suited to a clean, formal look. Prime grade sits just below that, with a few more natural markings. Nature and rustic grades show more knots, colour variation, and character, and tend to suit the Victorian-era properties common around Cheadle's High Street particularly well.

Moisture Testing and Levelling

Before any board goes down, the subfloor needs testing. For timber subfloors, moisture content should sit below roughly 12%. For concrete, relative humidity above 75% signals a problem that needs addressing before installation, often with a damp-proof membrane.

Flatness matters just as much. Anywhere the floor dips or rises beyond that gets corrected with a self-levelling compound first. Skipping this step is one of the most common reasons floors develop movement, gaps, or a hollow feel underfoot later on.

Installation Methods

Solid wood is typically nailed or glued to a suitable subfloor, which needs to be dry, level, and usually timber rather than concrete. Engineered wood offers more flexibility. It can be floated using a click-lock system, glued down, or occasionally nailed, depending on the subfloor and the specific product.

Every solid or engineered board also needs an expansion gap around the room's perimeter, usually 10mm to 15mm, later hidden by skirting. This gap allows the wood to move naturally with the seasons without pressing against walls.